Monday, September 28, 2015

Day Two: Yarmouth to Lunenburg

 Land Ho!
The Ferry staff woke us up before we could see land, so it was kind of exciting to finally see a sliver of land "floating" upon the ocean.  As a West Coast child, I've rarely seen the sun rise over the ocean.

 I might make an abstract painting to remind me of the port hole.
 The Harleys drove off before we did, but it was a bright, sunny day in Yarmouth.  The Customs officials were slow but cheery.
 I hadn't researched Yarmouth, but there is an obvious shipping, fishing and construction economy in this Atlantic Coast community. It claims to be the worlds largest lobster fishing grounds.

We happened by the Izaac Walton Killam Memorial Library.  Mr. Killam was one a native of Yarmouth and went from paper boy to financier and philanthropist.  His sisters donated the money to build the library in his memory.  The statue in front of the library is a "war memorial," but I couldn't find out which war.
Across the street is a park, also dedicated to veterans.  I liked the flag pole with National and regional flags.
 Between Yarmouth and Shelburn were many hillocks of wildflowers, weeds, and rocks.  It was a beautiful day.  I hope to use some of these photographs as references for pastel paintings in the style of Karen Margulis.

 We thought we'd go to "Cape Sable Island," because it was on the map and we were curious.  There wasn't much there, there, but the marshes and estuaries were beautiful. 

When we slowed down to look at the dunes a woman came out of her house to see if we were lost.  She told us how to get to the "beach" and where.  We met lots of friendly people.

 There was a causeway to get from the mainland to Cape Island.

 Won't this make a great painting?

 I wish it were more common in the US to paint houses bright colors. 

It wasn't too long before we reached Shelburne.  The town has a dory building enterprise upon which the boat building in nearby Amesbury is modeled.  The boats are handmade and graceful.

 The Cox warehouse and Shelburne County Museum were open and interesting.  Shelburne was home to loyalists during the American Revolution, so there is plenty of British and Scottish influence.

Having never visited this part of the world before, I had no idea how much the American Revolution, the Seven Years War in Europe, nor the French and Indian War affected the region.  I believe those conflicts contain the roots of today's un-ease between English and French speakers.... not to mention how horribly the French captives (Acadians) were treated.

Our first night's rest was to be in Lunenburg, chosen because it was frequently recommended and ALWAYS pictured on the literature for Nova Scotia.  It is a bit off the main highway, but we found it and our hotel easily.  Below is the view (as promised) from our room at The Topmast Motel.
In spite of being in the Lobster and Scallop capital of the universe, we were tempted by an in-room menu to go to the Old Black Forest Gasthof .  The Sauerbraten and Pork tenderloin with spaetzle was wonderful.  As was the key lime pie!!

 There was a traditional collection of cow bells, and not-so-traditional crocheted curtains with all their ducks in a row.



Lunenburg has lions on the lamppost at the cross roads.  
 The Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic is right on the water along with lots of restaurants and B&B's.  Painting it red was a bright idea!

 Even though Lunenburg is a UNESCO Heritage Site, it didn't seem overly kitchy or touristy.  Just charming.  The Realtor had model boats in the window, and many of the lamp posts had sea creature motifs.


 Nearly all of the historic homes were recently painted and well maintained.
 I startled a cat who had been hiding under a car.
 We found a lovely new and used bookstore, Lunenburg Bound.  I bought a book about Pirates and Privateers on the Atlantic Coast.  The store also had a nifty selection of wrapping paper and greeting cards.

The town is proud of its bright colors! 

Even the market we found seemed brighter than we were used to.

 Beautiful end to a beautiful day.

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